"Nature Guide Journal"
11 May 2002
Very low tides next week and later in May will draw clammers and tidepoolers
down to the water's ever-changing edge.
While some of the tides this month are especially low, we experience
two high tides and two low tides every 24 hours and 50 minutes, all year
long.
Looking down on the earth from high above a pole, the tides would
look rather like a circle set in an oval, with the oval being the water
pulled deeper on opposite sides of the planet. As we ride on the
rotating earth we pass through the deep part of the oval ("high
tide") then the shallow part of the oval ("low tide"). We
then pass through the deep and shallow on the other side to make a whole
trip (a day).
The water is bulged out on one side by the gravitational pull of our
moon; this moon-caused bulge is balanced by the bulge on the opposite
side of the earth, caused by centrifugal force. The paired bulges follow
the moon as it slowly orbits the earth. The gravitational pull of the
sun also tugs on the water, but the sun's much greater distance lessens
the gravitational effect of its larger size, so the moon's role in tides
is greater.
While minute on a global scale, in human terms the coming and going
of a bulge is more significant: in our part of the world, the bulge
appears as 6 – 10 foot change in the water level at land's edge.
The arrangement of the moon, sun, and earth affect the tides, as well
as create the effect we see as the phases of the moon.
Twice a month, the moon and sun are lined up with the earth enough
for their gravitational pulls to effectively combine. When that happens,
the bulges of water we rotate through are a little deeper—and the
spaces between the bulges are a little shallower—and we experience a
greater difference between high and low tides. Such big-difference tides
are "spring tides," named for the springing effect, not for
the season. Spring tides occur twice each month, during and just after
full moons and new moons.
"Neap tides" are the in-between tides, when the sun and
moon aren't lined up with the earth and their forces tend to counteract
each other, producing a smaller difference between high and low tides.
Neap tides occur during and just after waxing and waning moons.
In our part of the world, the two high tides in a day may be very
different levels, and the two low tides may be very different levels.
They're different for essentially the same reason the moon doesn't rise
over the same point on the horizon each night: the moon's orbital plane
is not level with the earth's equator. As the moon orbits around us, it
drifts north and south a bit, dragging the bulge of water with it. As we
ride the earth around, our part of the world usually goes through the
shoulders of the tide-bulges, resulting in the experience of high tides
that are different heights—and low tides that are different heights.
This all ends with a set of two high tides (of different height) each
day, and two low tides (of different height) each day: a higher high
tide, a lower low tide, a lower high tide, and a higher low tide. The
zero on tide tables is the average level of the lower low tides.
Why are our low tides more extreme in early summer than in, say,
autumn? The extreme tilt of the earth around the summer and winter
solstices augments the tidal causes, resulting in "bigger"
tides.
Also playing roles in the precise time and level of local tides are
friction, the placement and shape and orientation of the land masses,
the water currents, and the atmospheric pressure.
While many forces continually work together to drive the tides, every
month and each season, low tide opportunities for clam-diggers and
tidepool-explorers are especially rich now.